Property Repair Systems

01626 331351

- Borax kills larvae and hatching eggs in carpets and fabric covered furniture.

- It also controls Woodworm in timber floors and wooden furniture.

- No smell, no vapour, no stains, no hazard rating.

Flea control in carpets and soft furnishings

Borax is a specially formulated Boron based compound dissolved in water. This product is designed to penetrate into the nap of carpets where the fleas live and breed and into wood, where woodworm live and breed. There are many unpleasant chemical flea and woodworm treatment products on the market today, but be careful because many based on hazardous chemicals that evaporate into your rooms - into the air that you breathe. The active Borate in Borax does not evaporate, so remains where you want it - inside the carpet, fabric or wood. Borax will not lose its effectiveness, even if vacuuming occurs.

Female fleas lay their eggs on pets, carpets and furniture. These eggs hatch into a small worm like larvae. Flea larvae then feed on the Boron based Ultra 12 and die! They never reach the adult stage. Borax is designed to kill any flea larvae that are laid in the house by pet's fleas. However, pets need to be treated on a regular basis to ensure they are flea-free.

As long as label safety directions are followed, there should be no harmful effects to the people in the house or the pets.

Borax is specially formulated to dry dust-free and there is no clean up needed after treatment. It is a true solution in water: no added chemicals, solvents or dyes.

Application for Flea Control

Important - always test a small patch of carpet or upholstery, in a non visible area, and allow to dry, to ensure that your fabrics will not be damaged by a water based product. Carpet and fabric treatments with chemicals of any kind are not recommended for homes with infants.

Carpets: Vacuum all carpets thoroughly and dispose of the bag. If using a bagless vacuum cleaner wash the container and clean the filters thoroughly using Borax solution. Apply Borax to dry carpets only. Apply directly on carpets where pets frequently traffic or sleep at a rate of 1 litre per 4 square metres. Apply the liquid using either a carpet shampooing machine, a hand spray pump or a nylon brush. Keep unprotected people, pets and children out the room until the carpets are completely dry. Wait 4 to 5 days before vacuuming. Allow 3 to five weeks for maximum flea control. Do not reapply in less than 12 months - the product remains permanently within the carpet pile. Note: If an existing high adult flea population makes it desirable, apply a conventional pesticide designed to kill adult fleas, before using this product, to reduce the adult population.

Upholstery: Remove lose cushions. Apply Borax sparingly with a spray applicator or soft brush. Allow to dry fully before replacing cushions. Check the manufacturers instructions regarding the cushion fill and washing - Borax can be applied to covers or complete cushions if washing is permitted.

Guarantee

Property Repair Systems guarantees that within 6 weeks of treatment your flea problem will be under control, provided that you follow the directions above and regularly shampoo your pet.

Borax will NOT kill fleas on the pet, but only when the fleas jump off of the pet into the carpet and lay their eggs. However, some types of flea will stay on the pet and seldom jump off. Only regular shampooing of the pet will insure it will stay flea free.

If you have questions, feel free to call 01626 331351.

Borax - Carpet, Fabric and Wood Treatment

A unique odourless treatment, already to dissolved in water, designed to treat carpets, fabrics and timber by brush, shampoo machine or spray. It avoids the hazard problems of many liquid preservatives by using only water as a carrier. It can also be used in most situations to replace other less ‘friendly’ contact type insecticides, including Permethrin (which for example, like all Pyrethroids, is highly toxic to fish and birds, and gives off a vapour into the air you breathe).

Ready to Use - 5 litres of Borax - already dissolved in water.

Typical consumption rates - 2 domestic living rooms - 5 litres, 2 domestic living rooms and 2 bedrooms - 10 litres.

Always follow the instructions on the product label, wear gloves and splash proof clothing. If spraying wear the correct mask. Check with us before purchasing to ensure that you are buying the correct product.

To buy now

Borax - 5 litre - £22.88 - or, for professionals, Borax - 25 litres - £95.48 -

Spraying Mask - £8.78 - Vinyl Gloves - box of 100 uni-handed - £10.97 -

Sprayer, 5 litre, hand pump - £17.23 -

or, click to go to our full Boron Shop

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Life Cycle

Adult fleas (the biting stage seen by pet owners) spend most of their time on the animal, not in the carpet. This is why treatment of the pet in conjunction with the pet's environment is an essential step in ridding a home of fleas.

Adult fleas lay all of their eggs (up to 50 per day) on the pet. However, the eggs soon fall off the animal into carpeting, under the cushions on furniture and wherever the pet rests, sleeps or spends most of its time. This is where you should focus your treatments.

After hatching, flea eggs develop into very tiny, worm-like larvae. The Larvae hide deep in the carpet pile, under cushions and in other hidden corners. The larvae feed mainly on adult flea poo (dried blood) which accumulates, along with the eggs, in pet baskets, kennels and play areas.

Before becoming adults, the larvae transform into pupae within a silk-like cocoon. Pupae remain inside the cocoon for 2 to 4 weeks, occasionally longer. The cocoon is not affected by most insecticides and this is why some adult fleas are seen for a long period, even after the full treatment of home and animal.

Treatment of the home

If you neglect to treat the pet's home you will miss more than 90% of the flea population -- the eggs, larvae and pupae. If the pet spends time indoors, the interior of the home should also be treated. Before treatment, you should:

Remove all toys, clothing, and stored items from floors, under beds, and in cupboards. This step is essential so that all areas will be accessible for treatment.

Remove pet food and water dishes, cover fish tanks, and disconnect their aerators.

Wash, dry-clean or destroy all pet bedding.

Vacuum! -- vacuuming removes many of the eggs, larvae and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their insecticide-resistant cocoons, thus hastening their contact with insecticide residues in the carpet. By raising the pile of the carpet, vacuuming improves the insecticide's penetration down to the base of the carpet fibres where the developing fleas live. Vacuum thoroughly, especially in areas where pets rest or sleep. Don't forget to vacuum along edges of rooms and beneath furniture, cushions, beds, and throw rugs. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a plastic bag and discard in the dustbin.

Insecticide Application - Once fleas become established in a home, insecticides are almost always needed to control them. Always read and follow label directions on the insecticide container. Other than the person performing the application, people and pets should be out of the house during treatment. People and pets should also remain off treated surfaces until the spray has dried. This may take several hours, depending on carpet type, ventilation and method of application. Opening windows and running a fan after treatment will speed up drying.

Many different products are available for home treatment. The most effective formulations contain both an adulticide (e.g., Permethrin) effective against the biting adult stage, and an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen), necessary to provide long-term suppression of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Pet owners will need to carefully read the “active ingredients” panel on the product label to determine if these ingredients are present. Carpets, rugs, under and behind beds and furniture, and beneath cushions on which pets sleep should all be treated. Pay particular attention to areas where pets spend time or sleep, as these will be the areas where most flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be concentrated. For example, if the family cat sleeps within a closet, or hides under the bed, these areas must be treated or the problem will continue. Hardwood and tile floors generally do not require treatment, but should be thoroughly vacuumed.

Expect to see some fleas for 2 weeks or longer following treatment. Provided all infested areas were treated initially, these "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide. Instead of retreating the premises, continue to vacuum. As noted earlier, vacuuming stimulates the insecticide-resistant pupae to hatch, bringing the newly emerged adults into contact with the insecticide sooner.

Treatment of Pet

It is important that the pet be treated in conjunction with the premises, preferably on the same day. Adult fleas spend virtually their entire life on the animal -- not in the carpet. Untreated pets will continue to be bothered by fleas. They may also transport fleas in from outdoors, eventually overcoming the effectiveness of the insecticide applied inside the home.

Pets can be treated either by a veterinarian or the pet owner. A variety of on-animal formulations are available that may be prescribed by veterinarians. Many provide only short-term relief against biting adults (a few hours to a few weeks); however, two new veterinarian-supplied products, Advantage and Frontline, control adult fleas on pets for 1 and 3 months, respectively. Some products also contain an insect growth regulator (IGR) to prevent eggs from hatching as they are laid on the animal.

Pet owners should always read the product label. Certain products can be used only on dogs, and some list specific treatment procedures for puppies and kittens. Do not treat pets with the same products used to treat carpeting or the yard. As previously mentioned, it is important that pets be kept off treated carpets and surfaces until the spray has completely dried.

Pet owners must also treat the pet's environment, the home. Having your pet treated will not, in itself, eliminate fleas in an infested home.

Treatment of Yard

Most flea problems can be eliminated by treating the pet and the interior of the home. In cases where pets spend most of their time outdoors, it may also be necessary to treat the yard. One way to determine if the yard is infested is to walk around the property wearing long white socks, pulled to the knee. If fleas are present, they will be seen against the white background of the socks.

Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where pets rest, sleep, and run, such as kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. Insecticide formulations containing Permethrin are somewhat effective for outdoor flea treatment.

Fleas can be successfully controlled by diligently following the steps outlined above. Homeowners who lack the time to control fleas themselves or who are uncomfortable applying pesticides may wish to enlist the services of a professional pest control firm.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: My son gets bitten by fleas, while I am never bothered. Why is this?

A: Blood feeding insects are attracted to chemicals emitted from the body (sweat, exhalation, etc.). Some people just smell more attractive than others to certain insects. Individual sensitivity to the bite is another reason. To some, flea bites are extremely irritating while other people hardly notice them. This is caused by an allergic response to the flea saliva and occurs in varying degrees among people.

Q: I have treated my house for fleas with Permethrin three times this month and still have them. Why?

A: It is likely that you are seeing adults emerge from cocoons that were produced before you treated. The cocoons are deep within the carpet and treatment may not have reached them. If you did not treat your yard new fleas may be coming indoors on you or your pets. If the treatment you used only contained Pyrethrums or Pyrethroids, you probably only killed larvae and adults.

Q: I just moved into a new house. It is infested with fleas. Where did they come from and what can I do?

A: The people living there before you probably had a pet. Even if the apartment was treated with insecticides before you moved in, the treatment may not have penetrated the carpet to kill developing pupae. Treatment is described above.

Q: When we go on holiday, we board our dogs at the kennel and leave the house closed up for three weeks. As soon as we get home we are attacked by fleas. The dogs have been away. What is going on?

A: The fleas that were in the egg and larval stage have pupated and matured and were waiting in their cocoons for the proper stimulation to emerge (vibration, carbon dioxide).

Q: What is the difference between dog fleas and cat fleas?

A: Cat fleas are the main flea on both cats and dogs in North America. Dog fleas are mainly found in Europe. They are distinguished by a slight morphological difference which is only detectable under high magnification.

Q: What are sand fleas?

A: "Sand fleas" or "beach fleas" are common names for small orange amphipods found along the beach. They are distant relatives of true fleas, and are not even insects (they have more than six legs). Also, some people may refer to fleas that just happen to be developing in sandy areas as "sand fleas".

There are over 2,000 described species of fleas in the world. The most common domestic flea is the cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis felis). The dog flea (Ctenocephalides canis) appears similar to the cat flea, but is common throughout Europe.

Eggs are oval, and smooth. They are tiny (0.5mm), but visible to the naked eye. Their white colour may prevent them from being seen on lightly coloured fabric. Small worm-like larvae (1.5-5 mm in length) hatch from the eggs. They are also visible to the naked eye. They are eyeless, legless and sparsely covered with hairs.

The larval body is translucent white with a dark coloured gut that can be seen through the skin. These immature fleas will eventually spin silken cocoons in which they will develop (pupate) into adult fleas.

Cocoons are sticky, attracting dirt and debris. This camouflage may prevent them from being seen. Adults are about 1-3 mm in length, reddish-brown to black, wingless, and laterally compressed. Their powerful hind legs are well adapted for jumping and running through hair and feathers.

Cat flea adults, unlike many other fleas, remain on their host. Females require a fresh blood meal in order to produce eggs, and they can lay up to 1 per hour! The smooth eggs easily fall from the pet onto the carpet, bedding, or kennel.

Adult poo consists of relatively undigested blood. This dried blood also falls from the pet and serves as food for the newly hatched larvae. The young fleas will hatch within 2 days and feed on dandruff, grain particles, and skin flakes found on the floor around them, in addition to the fecal matter provided by adult fleas. They prefer to develop in areas protected from rainfall, irrigation, and sunlight, where the relative humidity is at least 75% and the temperature is 70-90°F. The larval stage lasts 5-15 days.

Larvae spin silken cocoons within carpet fibres, floor crevices, or protected outdoor areas in which they will develop (pupate) into adult fleas. The cocoons are sticky and easily camouflaged by local debris. Under optimal conditions, new adults are ready to emerge within 2 weeks. They develop faster at higher temperatures, but can remain in their cocoons up to 12 months. Vibrations and/or an increase in carbon dioxide stimulate adults to emerge. Adults live 4-25 days and are the only stage that lives on the pet and feeds on fresh blood.

Use Insecticides and Biocides safely. Always read the label and product information Data Sheet before use.

Wear the correct safety equipment and keep unprotected people and animals out of the treated area for the statutory period given on the label.

All products have some hazards and the COSHH Regulations (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health) apply to ALL building repair and construction products that we sell, even Cement. Always wear a dust mask when handling powders.

If in doubt consult us for free technical help. Take care not to contaminate soil, waterways or the environment with the product or the waste and packaging. These can be returned to us for disposal.

Avoid using any type of chemical in your home if any of the following are likely to come into contact with treated surfaces: babies, young children, asthmatics, pregnant women or those vulnerable due to ill health.

For more help go to:

www.boron.org.uk - how to use Boron based insecticides/fungicides to treat timber rots and insect attack

www.dampness-info.co.uk - how to treat penetrating dampness in walls and plaster

www.deck-treatment.co.uk - how to treat patio decks and yacht decks

www.dryrot.biz - how to cure and prevent Dry Rot

www.epoxy-info.co.uk - epoxies, polyesters and polyurethanes for all applications

www.joist-repair.co.uk - how to quickly repair joists and beams of any size

www.timber.org.uk - systems of repair, with step by step methods

www.timber-repair.co.uk - how to repair timbers in buildings without wrecking the place

www.propertyrepairsystems.co.uk - fire paints, crack injection, metal fabrication, hygiene treatments

Property Repair Systems, Unit 3, Olympus Business Park, Kingsteignton Road, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 2SN

T: 01626 331351, F: 01626 331143, E: help@propertyrepairsystems.co.uk

About Boron | Treatments | Treat Furniture | Boron History | Product Range | Shop |

References | Privacy Policy | Returns Policy | Contact